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  Travel and Leisure

Oktoberfest
A Party Like No Other

By D.W.


So there I was standing with my friends outside the Schottenhamel Fest Tent at 7:00 AM on the opening day of Oktoberfest in Munich Germany, most of which are already thoroughly intoxicated. We were the only foreigners on the site standing in line with about 200 Germans wearing the whole Bavarian costume with lederhosen, funny hats, and all the paraphernalia. It was as if we stepped into the German scene of National Lampoons European Vacation, only it was live.

Needless to say we stuck out like a sore thumb but it was okay because we were already well beyond drunk and being obnoxious Americans we brought beer to the worlds largest beer fest. And if you are a beer drinker there is no better party than Oktoberfest but it’s not for lightweights. Incidentally, if Miller Light and Coors are your usual fare you won’t last an hour at Oktoberfest.

The festival actually begins in mid September and ends in early October so don’t be misled like an ignorant Yankee. The real Oktoberfest is located in downtown Munich thus every similar event is just an imitation.

One tip for making plans to go; make hotel and travel reservations several months ahead of time.

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My friends and I took the train overnight to Munich, which was an adventure in itself and I wouldn’t recommend trying it yourself unless you are young and stupid.

The event kicked off on a Saturday and we had been awake since 5:00 AM Friday. We departed on our train ride after work that day and at about 7:00 PM we arrived in Bamberg, another nice town to pick up a friend. Of course we decided to hang out and bar hop in Bamberg until 2:00 AM when we caught a train to Nurnberg at 3:00 AM. In case you don’t know, German beer has about 12% alcohol on average and we had been drinking for about seven hours up to that point.

The train to Munich would not depart until 6:00 AM so we had about three hours to stumble around Nurnberg in a barely coherent state of mind. However, we did actually make it back to the train station and got 40 minutes of sleep before we arrived at Munich at about 7:00 AM. The fair ground was only a short walk from the main train station and nobody was around except for a crowd outside the Schottenhamel Fest Tent, so that’s where we went.

I have been to Munich many times before and I must say that it is probably one of the safest cities I have ever been too. I have stumbled through the streets like a drunken beggar more times than I care to admit and no one has ever harassed me. It is also very easy to navigate on foot and the cab drivers are pretty good and mostly speak English. It is also impressively clean for a large city with plenty of good places to eat and party. Hotels there are no more expensive than they are in any other big city. And even if you are not interested in Oktoberfest, I highly recommend Munich as a tourist destination.

Unbeknownst to my friends or me at the time, the Schottenhamel tent hosts the keg tapping ceremony, which officially begins the festival on the first day. Only hardcore Bavarians really make an effort to wake up early enough to make it into the tent for the ceremony. But, there we were, accidental tourists happening upon an important social activity in Germany. And who else was there to open the ceremony? None other than one of Europe’s favorite socialist, Gerhardt Schroeder.

We waited for about three hours chatting with our new German acquaintances until the opening ceremony at 10:00 am. No beer was served until then so we took the opportunity to sober up a little bit. But once the keg was tapped and the beer girls sallied forth with about four stein mugs (1 liter mugs) in each hand of fresh delicious beer. There was no going back to sobriety for the rest of the day after that point. Before long we were singing all sorts of German beer drinking songs in fluent German and dancing as if we had been doing it forever.

There are about 14 beer tents at Oktoberfest with numerous places to eat and a big carnival with the usual assortment of attractions. There are some beer brands like Lowenbrau that you may know of but many other regional beers that are just as good that you probably never heard of like Augustinerbrau. Oh and by the way, Budweiser didn’t even have a stand but that should not surprise any beer aficionados.

By noon everyone in the tent was thoroughly intoxicated and having a great time. I had four steins (4 liters) of beer and I was wondering if I was still actually alive. Somehow I had a silly hat on my head that looked like a beer barrel with a wooden spout. I honestly don’t know how it got there but it is a cool looking souvenir none the less. We had gotten a call from another friend who was also at the festival but had traveled separately. He was in the Hoffbrau Tent so we decided to head over there and link up with his party.

The Schottenhamel tent was mostly occupied by Germans, who are generally very disciplined and restrained people even when they are drunk; aside from the whole genocidal war thing. They got pretty tanked in the tent but surprisingly, there was order and organization amidst the chaos. The Hofbrau tent was mostly filled with non-Germans and it was a very different sort of scene.

Now time for a disclaimer: I am not discussing this event to glorify my past drunken adventures but to inform you about what you may encounter if you went to Oktoberfest. Remember, this festival is not for the weak of heart or for the weak beer drinker (Bud Light, etc).

Stepping into the Hofbrau tent was like being teleported to the fifth circle of hell. A tent designed to hold about 10,000 people was actually holding around 20,000 people. And about 18,000 of them were well past the point of being drunk. The floor was covered with spilled beer, broken stein glasses, urine, and vomit; all after two hours of partying. Women were taking their clothes off and throwing their panties into the crowd. I was hit in the face with a beer drenched sheer bra and thong and I just threw them back into the crowd. I also got into a fight where I threw some guy off the table but there were lots of fights that day.

We left the Hofbrau tent about 5:00 PM thoroughly exhausted and in dire need of sleep and sobriety.

Luckily there were a number of good restaurants on the fair grounds covering the entire spread of traditional German fair from schnitzel to big pretzels. After a delicious feast we boarded the train and concluded our little adventure. Amazingly, at the end of the day we still had our wallets and nobody was thrown in jail.

If beer is you favorite past time and you have a good tolerance for alcohol, then perhaps Oktoberfest is the event you have been waiting for. If it doesn’t sound appealing to you, then try Munich at any other time of the year and you can still get a stein of great beer and a big pretzel. 

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  National Summary - Copyright 2007

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