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Victoria’s
Secret
Has Sexy Become Too Trashy?
By Daniel Muniz
Lingerie is a huge ten billion dollar industry in the United States
and to no one’s surprise; Victoria’s Secret dominates about half of
it with annual sales of more than $5 billion. But this retail giant
is at a crossroads with its future due to slumping sales. As a
result, the enormous franchise is taking a hard look at a new
marketing approach in hopes of regaining its former customers as
well as attracting a bumper crop of new ones.
However, critics point to the perception that the huge chain has
become too sleazy. For years, parents in shopping malls loudly
complained that this colossal retailer flaunted far too many
provocatively posed mannequins in their storefront windows wearing
outfits that were better suited for a porn star. In addition, their
sultry advertisements and glitzy fashion shows featuring scantily
clad models have begun to take on the look and feel of soft porn.
In fact, CEO Sharen Jester Turney admitted that the image of
Victoria’s Secret has become:
“Too sexy... We have so
much gotten off our heritage."
Source: The Wall Street Journal
However, many industry experts insist that instead of being “too
sexy” the retail giant simply got too trashy. After all, we live in
a “Girls Gone Wild” era where the antics of celebrities such as
Britney Spears, Paris Hilton, and Lindsey Lohan saturate our popular
culture. So the franchise sought to try to appeal to this flashier
but growing segment of the population with products specially
tailored to them.
The result was the enormous success of their Pink brand which
featured a trendier line of apparel and underwear primarily targeted
to college students and to the twenty-something crowd. And since
teenage girls also want to imitate their young adult counterparts,
Pink also caught on with the high school age group.
Unfortunately, the Pink success eventually became an albatross
around their neck.
All of a sudden, what was once a specialty lingerie shop that
catered to the upscale tastes of women who sought to become more
elegant and sophisticated; the chain now focused their attention on
the “Girls Gone Wild” genre. Consequently, their longtime loyal
shoppers, many who were professional women, found fewer product
lines that appealed to them and they weren’t all that interested in
the racier styles geared towards college kids.
But in essence, Victoria’s Secret cannot have it both ways.
And that is because both categories of customers are diametrically
opposed to each other. Being too flashy and too adolescent may be
fine for what teenage girls want but it turns off the women who
desire to be chic and upscale in their intimate wear. Also, the
inverse is just as true.
Although one possible nightmare scenario for the retailer is that
young women will stop wearing panties altogether if Britney Spears
and Lindsey Lohan ever turn that into a trendy fashion statement.
However, this dilemma is the same that all success stories
eventually have to face.
In the beginning, Victoria’s Secret only had four locations and a
catalog when its parent company Limited bought it in 1982. But the
lingerie shop was just like all the other seedy stores that offered
gaudy undergarments that looked like it belonged in a triple X adult
movie. Alternately, the big department stores at the time only
offered the depressingly bland styles of beige, black, and white for
their bras and panties.
The parent company then took Victoria’s Secret into a completely new
direction.
They turned their stores into upscale specialty shops and upgraded
the quality of their lingerie with a stylish European flair. No
longer were they cheap and seedy like all the other lingerie stores
but they also didn’t carry the dull and uninspiring undergarments
that populated pricier department stores.
This transformation hit pay dirt by striking a nerve in female
consumers. Now lingerie could be as elegant as it was sexy with a
vast array of colors and styles that didn’t have a hint of being
trashy. The small time lingerie shop exploded in size and catapulted
itself into a chain with one thousand locations.
But as with most corporate giants, Victoria’s Secret has become a
victim of its own success by trying to become everything to
everyone. It simply cannot be done without sacrificing its core base
of customers that turned it into a juggernaut. So in words, it has
reached its ceiling but that is not a bad thing. It just means that
the franchise has to become the best specialty shop in the industry
by increasing profit per customer and limiting overall costs.
Lots of companies in totally different fields have done the exact
same thing in reducing market share in order to increase
profitability. In fact, the irony is that it is actually more
profitable to lose extraneous customers so that the existing
customer base can be catered to with more attention and focus.
Overall, Victoria’s Secret got caught with its pants down when it
tried to expand beyond its traditional clientele. And just like with
so many other big corporations, only time will tell if they can
successfully recapture the magic that created its success.
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